
Excerpts from There and Back Again : Almost Paradise
Buena Vista, our new home near the top of Landour ridge, certainly lived up to its name. To the south there is a fantastic view of the Doon Valley, the Siwalik Hills and the plains beyond. On a clear day after a rain looking south it is possible to see about forty miles. At night the lights of Dehradoon twinkle like stars or the embers of a bed of coals. To the north, there are spectacular views of the high Himalayas with peaks rising twenty-one to twenty-six thousand feet high, about forty air miles away at its closest.
On a clear spring mid-morning after a storm, looking north you can see a hundred-eighty-mile panorama of the Himalayas. Layer upon layer, the ridges form a rich tapestry of green changing to deep blue and purple. Then in dramatic fashion, the soaring rockwalls, folded ridges, gleaming white rolling snowfields and jagged peaks rise majestically above the layered ridges ten-thousand feet to touch the bright blue sky. I stand transfixed, enchanted, not wanting to turn away, drinking it all in.
Encounters with predators were common enough to keep our interest peaked. One night in the summer of 1963, my parents were walking home the three miles from the Rialto movie theater to Mount Hermon after watching the movie Ben Hur. About eleven o’clock at night on the Eyebrow path they encountered a leopard. They had just entered the wooded area past a steep grassy slope where the path switched back to climb up; and there, not twenty-five feet from them, were two eyes illuminated brightly by the flashlight. They stood stock-still and dad could see the spots on its crouched body and the tail twitching. Prayers were flashed to heaven as they waited for what seemed like an eternity for the impending pounce. After a long moment the panther bounded off to their left down the mountain.